Milano SS 2026

Milan SS26 unfolded as a season both of homage and of evolution, paying respects to its heritage while leaning into reinvention. The week was deeply marked by the final collection of Giorgio Armani — a moment of emotional gravity — even as newer creative directors (at Versace, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander) stepped into the spotlight with fresh visions. Themes of craft, wearability, and colour dominated. Luxury houses balanced spectacle with more grounded pieces, while streetwear-adjacent work and unexpected presentations pointed to a more layered future for Italian fashion. 

Fendi

Silvia Venturini Fendi leaned into playful elegance and structural whimsy. The show embraced bright, exuberant colour — sunshine yellow, turquoise, coral, bubblegum pink — paired with adjustable silhouettes, ties, and pull-cords that allowed pieces to shift in motion. Accessories like beaded bags, woven mesh, and more relaxed trainers softened the couture edge, making many looks feel luxe yet wearable. The casting was generationally broad, giving a sense of inclusive optimism. Critics appreciated how Fendi managed to feel both joyful and refined. 

Gucci

Gucci’s SS26 marked a turning point: Demna’s debut was not a traditional runway show but a cinematic presentation, The Tiger. It introduced a family of character-archetypes, exaggerated proportions, and surreal takes on classic Gucci signatures — GG monogram, Bamboo bag, Horsebit, etc. The collection mixed nostalgia and excess with minimalism and second-skin silhouettes. It resonated strongly in editorial and social channels, though its commercial impact remained to be seen given its more concept-heavy format. 

Jil Sander

Simone Bellotti’s first SS26 for Jil Sander struck a balance between tradition and subtle innovation. Clean, tailored lines — pencil skirts, sharp jackets — dominated, but he added sensual notes: sheer fabrics, peekaboo cut-outs, and bold colour blocks. The restraint felt intentional. Many praised the collection for offering a minimalism that doesn’t feel cold but alive. In a week of spectacle, this felt like cool clarity. 

ETRO

Etro continued its tradition of bohemian excess and texture, pushing forward with clashing prints, ruffles, fringes, and fluid tailoring. Silky shimmers, crochet, and brocades added depth. There were floral and pictorial motifs, wide-brimmed hats, beaded scarves, and accessories that felt like heirlooms. The show felt ritualistic, sensual, and richly detailed, appealing especially in editorials and among those looking for craftsmanship and story. 

Missoni

Missoni, under Alberto Caliri, delivered what felt like a fantasy of endless summer. Bright zigzags, minis, bikini bottoms, and boyshorts appeared alongside oversized blazers and relaxed layers. Prints stayed signature but were applied in ways that felt suited to real life — beach, travel, poolside, not just runway. Accessories were many: beach totes, rolled towels — the collection exuded leisure but with style. 

Dolce & Gabanna

Dolce & Gabbana transformed pyjamas and loungewear into statement pieces. What might once have been bedside cotton was elevated to striped blazers, soft jackets, layered leather, fur-free plush slides, and unexpected pairings. The show wasn’t just about comfort — it was about glamour in rest and ease. The Italian flair was all over it: rich fabrications, signature bags, bold prints. The energy was theatrical but deeply rooted in a sense of Italian lifestyle. 

Giorgio Armarni

Giorgio Armani’s final show was the emotional centerpiece of Milan SS26. Models walked in a soft palette of ivory, navy, and silver, embodying the designer’s lifelong devotion to understated elegance. The audience responded with reverence, giving a standing ovation. It was less about novelty than legacy, a farewell that underlined Armani’s enduring influence on modern tailoring.

Bottega Veneta

Louise Trotter’s first collection for Bottega Veneta embraced functionality without losing the brand’s luxury edge. She reworked classic leather craft into versatile jackets, oversized totes, and fluid separates, leaning into pragmatism over spectacle. Buyers praised its retail readiness, while critics noted the quiet confidence of Trotter’s vision for the house.

Milan SS26 audiences seemed moved by history (Armani’s finale loomed large) but also curious about the new. There was buzz around the creative transitions: Demna, Bellotti, Louise Trotter at Bottega etc. Buyers leaned toward collections with strong character but also strong wearability — accessories, colour, adaptability. Luxury craftsmanship still held sway, but there was an undercurrent of democratization: houses experimenting with format (film, immersive presentations), new voices, and a clearer desire for emotionally resonant design. Street style reflected this: bold colour, but also quieter tailoring, patterned shirts, checks, softer silhouettes. 

Milano SS26 was a season of reconciliation: reconciling legacy with future, extravagance with wearability, spectacle with sincerity. The weight of Giorgio Armani’s passing added poignancy, but rather than pull the city into nostalgia, many designers used it as a pivot toward innovation and inclusive expression. While some presentations were more editorial or theatrical, the strongest collections found ways to be both beautiful and usable. Milan reminded us this season: craftsmanship still matters, but so do integrity, story, and adaptability.

All images used are the property of Tagwalk.