London SS 2026
London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 was a season of renewal, cultural reclamation, and creative daring. Under the fresh leadership of British Fashion Council CEO Laura Weir, the event reoriented itself toward greater accessibility, expanded programming, and a drive to reinvigorate London’s editorial and commercial relevance. The week unfolded as a bridge between the city’s tradition of outsider energy and its ambition to anchor itself firmly in the global fashion conversation again.
Weir’s arrival was felt immediately—she abolished the prohibitive show-fees that had hampered emerging labels, increased the number of guest spots, and extended support for NewGen programming. The expanded calendar allowed for a 18 % increase in shows and presentations over SS25, a clear signal of London’s regained optimism. With legacy names and cutting-edge newcomers sharing the stage, LFW SS26 aimed to reassert London as the crucible of invention and risk.
OSCAR OUYANG
Opening in the NewGen space, Oscar Ouyang made his runway debut with a knitwear-inflected collection inspired by messenger birds—owls, doves, eagles—and the notion of lost letters. His work felt like a poetic overture: delicate textures, soft edges, and a narrative sense of communication across distance.
CHOPOVA LOWENA
Chopova Lowena staged a spirited tribute to Americana and performance culture inside a repurposed church-gym space, weaving together cheerleading references, collage, and outsider aesthetics. Their collection embodied London’s edge—unpolished, bold, hybrid. The designers framed their vision around the tension between blending in and standing out.
SIMONE ROCHA
As always, Simone Rocha carried the romantic torch. Her SS26 show leaned into vintage femininity with hoop skirts, oversized bows, pillow-like clutches, metallic accents, and layers of lace and sparkle. The setting—Mansion House with gold décor and stained-glass illusions—amplified the dreamlike sensibility.
ERDEM
Marking its 20th anniversary, Erdem’s show drew on the fantastical visions of Hélène Smith, the 19th-century medium who claimed multiple past lives. Lace was deconstructed, crinolines reimagined, and vibrant greens, pinks, and emeralds punctuated the romantic drama. The collection felt like autobiography, myth-making, and couture reverie in one.
BURBERRY
Burberry closed the week with one of its grandest spectacles. In Kensington Palace Gardens beneath a sky-printed tent roof, Lee fused rock-inspired energy, festival spirit, and British sartorial codes. Shorter-length trenches, sequinned shifts, bold leather tailoring, and fringed embellishments evoked a modern picnic-meets-punk.
RICHARD QUINN
Richard Quinn delivered operatic spectacle, staging an “A Night at the Opera” show replete with crystal chandeliers, floral pageantry, and a surprise opening by Naomi Campbell. Across the week, theatrical gestures augmented the runway experience—Richard Quinn’s drama, Susan Fang’s sci-fi installation, and immersive presentations within the City Wide Celebration program blurred the line between performance, fashion, and installation.
ASHISH
Ashish delivered a high-energy celebration, sending models down the runway in vibrant sequins and kaleidoscopic colors. The show unfolded like a party, with music and movement infusing the space with joy. Audiences responded enthusiastically, embracing its celebratory spirit. Though less conceptual than other collections, it stood out for its inclusivity and cultural resonance.
SUSAN FANG
Susan Fang staged her show in the Barbican Conservatory, blending nature and technology with bubble sculptures and live music. The collection featured airy, sculptural dresses that evoked both fragility and futurism. Attendees treated the presentation like an art installation, captivated by its immersive setting. While critics admired its innovation, some questioned its retail potential, framing Fang’s work as more poetic than practical.
CONNOR IVES
Conner Ives brought retro glamour and gender fluidity to SS26, leaning into his signature mix of nostalgia and reinvention. Sequinned details and reworked silhouettes played with ideas of youth culture and nightlife. The audience responded warmly to his confident vision, though some buyers viewed it as more editorial than everyday. The collection underscored Ives’s position as one of London’s bold storytellers.
TALIA BYRE
Making her London debut, Talia Byre presented a refined minimalism rooted in quiet strength. She reimagined wardrobe staples with subtle distortions and introduced reworked Ugg silhouettes that drew attention. Critics praised the restraint and sharp tailoring, seeing it as a thoughtful counterpoint to London’s more theatrical shows. Buyers noted its versatility, positioning Byre as a promising new voice on the schedule.
FASHION EAST
Fashion East commemorated a quarter century of nurturing emerging voices with a retrospective-meets-futurist presentation at the ICA. Archival works sat alongside current projections, reminding attendees of London’s legacy as an engine of discovery.
The mood in London skewed communal and experiment-forward. Street style reclaimed a spotlight: Eclectic, slightly messy, ironic combinations—Simone Rocha layering with Burberry tones, abundant ballet flats, and collage-minded accents—repopulated the sidewalks. The public-facing aspect of the week—facilitated by Weir’s expanded guest programs—opened the closed circuit, inviting fresh eyes and democratizing access.
Critics applauded the architectural rigor of Erdem, the sense of mythos in Simone Rocha, and the spectacle of Burberry—yet some questioned whether London’s creative energy could effectively translate into commercial traction, especially in a market dominated by global luxury houses. Buyers and editors seemed selective, rewarding pieces with shape, wearability, or strong identity anchors.
London Fashion Week SS26 was a deliberate reset. Under new stewardship, it aimed to bridge risk and reach, renewing its role as the proving ground for bold new voices while reasserting itself in the international circuit. Designers embraced narrative, identity, and spectacle—from Tolu Coker’s heritage to Ashish’s euphoria. The balance between commerce and creativity remained delicate, but the week felt alive, hopeful, and very London: a city reasserting its license to dream loud.
All images used are the property of Tagwalk